Thursday, May 5, 2011

Safe in Sarajevo

What to say about Sarajevo?

Or where to begin.. Maybe from the beginning.

I knew I was going to come to Sarajevo for a reporting trip already in February. So at times at casual conversations the topic would rise up. I was surprised to notice that the most common reaction to my news was: is it safe? Aren't you afraid?

Is it safe? Not once did it occur to me that it might not be safe. It has been 16 years since the war ended. Why would it not be safe? Really, is this the image that most people still have of Sarajevo, of Bosnia?

In Europe Italy and Spain are actually the most dangerous countries for journalists, according to Reporters without Borders. Organized crime in Italy and ETA in Spain make journalism sometimes a risky business in those countries. Bosnia and Herzegovina is not even on the list.

But still the first thing that comes to mind when talking about the Balkans is war. Well, I'm not going to write about the war. For two reasons.

First, I don't feel I have the right to write about the war. What do I know of it? I don't even remember it happening, I've only studied about it later. What could I, a 24-year-old Finnish girl, possibly write about the Bosnian war?

The second reason, and maybe more important one, is that I think enough has been said already and it's time to move on. Why talk about the past when the future is far more important? And this is what I've been hearing here as well: enough is enough, let's move on and make a better life for us.

There is a young generation of creative, intelligent people in Bosnia, who are more than capable of changing the path of their country. In only two days I have met many talented, friendly and open-minded people, who are aware of their history and the challenges still ahead of them as a nation; such are sometimes rare to come across with in my own country.

I came to Bosnia from Croatia by bus yesterday. I had a five-hour transit in Bihac, a city close to Croatian border. I had my luggage with me and didn't want to drag them around the whole time. Unfortunately the bus station didn't have lockers or any place to put my bags.  

So there I was, standing in the bus station with my bags, when a tall guy comes up to me and says: "hey, I have a cafe here. You can put your things there". Hmm, a strange guy in Bosnia tells me to leave my stuff at his place? Sure, why not!

I ended up having interesting conversations with him, listening to traditional gypsy music and learning something new about the people of Bosnia. I did take a tour in the city, about three hours, and when I came back my things were totally safe. 

I feel more safe here than I've felt some other places in Western Europe, or in Finland. Although people who know me might say that I always feel safe, no matter where I go.. But still. Sarajevo is really a fascinating place, and I've received nothing but kindness and generosity. 

There are multiple layers in this city, and the five days I have left here are not even nearly enough. But I will try my best to understand the diversity and function of Sarajevan art and culture.

With one of the greatest writers of all time, I will end my post and start my adventure in Bosnia:

“To see a world in a grain of sand and heaven in a wild flower; Hold infinity in the palms of your hand and eternity in an hour.”
- William Blake

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